All images by: Rodd Owen
I lifted my head from the pillow expecting to see some sign of life through the low light of the morning and there it was. After its journey for 1000’s of kilometers and our journey for 1000’s of kilometers we finally made it to meet face to face on the shores of Nihiwatu. The wave shape had now stretched out across the reef revealing a longer more conformed lip line. Motivation was not needed at this point in time and in fact it was time to wash off a little excess. It was going to be a good day and the line up was well….empty.
"I could hear Beau giggling as he ran ahead of me across the beach to paddle out."
Beau lunges for his raft with the kind of youthful exuberance that could be expected in this scenario. I follow suit and scurry of down the rocky path bearing in mind one wrong toe stubbing in this low light could really put a holt on this ideal day. I could here Beauy giggling as he ran ahead of me across the beach to paddle out. As a surfer you live for these small windows when all the elements come together and the window had opened.
"If we're anywhere else in the world I might be a little more opportunistic but this was a whole different kettle of fish to your average line up."
“The waves were beautiful. Long walls that seemed to require an initial gathering of speed to set the tone for the ride ahead.”